Interesting Villas and Gardens

Villa Farnese (Caprarola)

Telephone +39 07 61 64 60 52
Opening times: Nov- Feb 9am-4pm Tues-Sun; Mar, Apr, Sept, Oct 9am -5pm Tues-Sun; May-Aug 9am-7pm Tues-Sun.

The most splendid villa in northern Lazio. The grandiose pentagonal building by Vignola was built for Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, the grandson of Pope Paul III, in the mid 16th century. The approach up a series of diagonal ramps, is extremely imposing. The interior has two identical suites of rooms leading off the central courtyard, one for the summer, the other for the winter. They are frescoed by the Zuccari family with grotesque decorations and scenes glorifying the Farnese family. Behind the Villa are two parterres, for the different seasons. Further up the hill, in the chestnut woods, is a secret garden, where the Cardinal could relax with his friends. At the top of a water-chain stands a casino, surrounded by a box parterre with statues of herms making music and conversing with one another. The effect is very pagan and a far remove from the piety of the contemporary Counter-Reformation which was transforming the Catholic religion.

Parco dei Mostri- Bomarzo

About 13km (8 miles) east of Bagnaia at Bomarzo lies the Park of the Monsters. Admission 8€. Prince Vicino Orsini had it built in a deep valley that’s overlooked by the Orsini Palace and the houses of the village. On the other side of the valley are stone cliffs. Prince Orsini’s park, Bosco Sacro (Sacred Wood), is filled with grotesque figures carved from natural rock. Nature and art have created a surrealistic fantasy: the Mouth of Hell (an ogre’s face so big that people can walk into its gaping mouth), a crude Hercules slaying an Amazon, nymphs with butterfly wings, a huge tortoise with a statue on its shell, a harpy, a mermaid, snarling dogs, lions, and much, much more.

Villa Lante

Villa Lante at Bagnaia near Viterbo, attributed to Giacomo Barozzi da Vignola (there is no contemporary documentation) is, with Bomarzo, one of the most famous Italian 16th century Mannerist gardens of surprises. The first shock to a visitor coming fresh from Villa Farnese Caprarola is the difference of two Vignola villas in the same area, period and architectural mannerist style: there is little if any similarity.

Among the features are, of course, fountains, terraces, topiary, pavillons, sculptures, the view… but there are also good frescoes in some of the buildings, and a truly nice cafe/ restaurant in the park outside the central garden area.

Towns and Roman Ruins to Expore

San Gemini and the ancient Roman ruins of Carsulae

A memorable day trip brimming with history and beautiful views of the rolling Umbrian countryside.
The town of Carsulae, dating from the 3rd century BC, was most famous for it’s Roman baths and therapeutic spring waters. It was developed shortly after the Via Flaminia was built and a large segment of this historic road remains intact forming the main street through the site. Though the town was abandoned in the Middle Ages because of serious landslides, the thoughtful excavation and restoration provides good insight to its original glory. Today, the small entrance museum provides a map of the site enabling visitors to stroll at their leisure through the tranquil ruins. Highlights include the Basilica of the Twin Temples, the amphitheatre and forum, the imposing arch of St. Damian, the medieval church of St. Damian and the interesting sepulchral monuments – all of which are quite well preserved.
A visit to the ruins in the morning will leave the afternoon to explore the quiet, peaceful town of San Gemini. An agricultural suburb of Carsulae in the 1st Century under the name of Casventum, it developed into a small city during the Middle Ages as Carsulae was abandoned. It was during this period that the town was renamed San Gemini – there are several theories for the name change, however the truth remains a mystery. Though quite small, San Gemini encapsulates the history of many hill towns in central Italy. It flourished and expanded during the 12th and 13th centuries, when several new churches, convents and monasteries were built. By the 15th Century, San Gemini was a religious center of some importance with most residents living inside the city walls connected with religious institutions.
The narrow, picturesque streets of San Gemini, radiating from the main square, Piazza Palazzo Vecchio, are often no more than stairways winding past the many churches and medieval residences. Local restaurants hidden in the maze of tiny streets offer a relaxing afternoon repose. ‘Taverna del Torchio’, on Piazza Garibaldi, is a good choice, with its traditional wood-burning oven, quality dishes and friendly attention; it has become a favorite of the area locals. A visit to the ‘Park of the Sangemini Spring’ will provide the perfect setting to reflect on the day. Located just north of San Gemini, 380m above sea level, the ubiquitous pine trees and ancient oaks are encompassed by soul soothing views of the countryside. Here the famous Sangemini mineral waters can be tasted directly from the fresh springs.

Narni

Otricoli

Vescovio

Viterbo

Natural Wonders

Cascata Marmorata

This is definitely an absolute must for whoever decides to visit Umbria. The Waterfalls, which are immersed in a natural scenery of incomparable beauty, are an artificial work due to the Romans. In fact, at that time, the Velino river was greatly enlarged and had created a vast zone of stagnant waters, swampy and unhealthy. Aiming to make these waters deflow, the consul Curius Dentatus had a canal dug which directed them in direction of the Marmore cliff. From there, he had them precipitate, in a total fall of 165 meters, into the river-bed of the Nera river which runs along below. In every age, the beauty of the Waterfalls has inspired poets and artists, among these: Virgilius, Cicero, G. Byron, and many others. For about 50 years now the waters of the Waterfall are used to fuel the hydroelectric power plant Galleto.

Further Afield

Spoleto

In Spoleto you will see ruins, artifacts and architecture dating from the earliest bronze age period through Roman times and into the Gothic, Renaissance and modern periods. You will climb its steep cobbled streets and sample from among its many treasures.

Assisi and Spello

Assisi, once the home of the great Saint Francis, is one of Umbria’s must-see towns. Always a vortex of beauty and spirituality, it offers some wonderful frescoes by Giotto and Cimabue.
Anyone who takes the time to meander through the impressive Basilica, its quaint chapels, and the narrow cobblestone streets of the town will come away enchanted. You will have a chance to view the superb Giotto frescos at the Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi before we hike to Spello, a charming little town nestled on an Umbrian hillside. Amazingly, Spello is filled with art, and home to fascinating collections by Pinturrichio, Il Perugino and Norberto Proietti. We’ll end the afternoon with a wine- and food-tasting at Enoteca Properzio, hosted by Roberto Angellini. Here you will sample many of Umbria’s best wines, and the many pestos, cheeses and olive oils that have made the region justifiably famous.

Deruta

Then on to to shop for pottery in Deruta, home of the famous Majolica ceramics. In the many shops lining the streets of this quaint hilltop town you can observe merchants hand painting ceramics in traditional patterns. Outside the walls of the historic center factories proudly open their doors to demonstrate their production methods.
Exquisite colors, intricate designs and never ending choices – some shoppers arrive knowing what they want; others find a special piece that stimulates their senses, their emotion.
But before pursuing the shops, visit the beautiful ceramic museum. A visit to the museum is both informative and enjoyable and is sure to enhance your shopping in Deruta.
The museum, the shops, lunch overlooking the valley…the shops – The small town of Deruta can easily become a full day trip! A fun, relaxing day without stress, ah yes, another taste of Umbria!

Orvieto

Those that enjoy Italian wines are no doubt familiar with the name, Orvieto. The fruity whites, ‘the wine of popes and kings’, from this region are sold throughout the world, and of course, readily available in cafes and shops around town. However, a trip to Orvieto has much to offer in addition to pleasant wines and good dining.
Strategically positioned, Orvieto was founded by the Etruscans and conquered by the Romans in 265 BC, becoming a free state with the fall of the Roman Empire. The town has always been of key importance due to its location between the north and south of Italy and thus became a papal stronghold in the 14th century. With 3,000 years of history, Orvieto offers today’s visitor treasures from each period.
The town is perched on a plateau of volcanic rock 315 meters above sea level overlooking the serene vineyards of the Paglia River valley.
On Orvieto’s main square, Piazza del Duomo, can be found one of Italy’s greatest Romanesque-Gothic cathedrals (begun in 1290 AD). It took over 300 years to complete this magnificent duomo with its elaborate façade, beautifully restored frescoes and the shrine sheltering the Holy Corporal from Bolsena.
Just off Piazza del Popolo, the medieval town center; is the world-famous Pozzo de San Patrizio. This 16th century well dug in the volcanic rock is over 62 meters deep and was considered an engineering feat in its day. The two spiral staircases of 250 steps lead into the wells but never intersect. This ingenious double helix design enabled animals loaded with water to come up from the well without meeting those on their way down.
In addition to the excellent museums, the Etruscan period can be best experienced by entering the underground grotto accessed from Via della Cava as well as a stop at Necropoli del Crocifisso del Tufo; an Etruscan cemetery where sepulchers built of tufa rock display what is assumed to be the names of the deceased – fine examples of the Etruscan written language.
Still strategically positioned, many visitors return to Orvieto, as in addition to your journey through history you won’t want to miss the quaint shops offering local pottery and regional delicacies. Indulge an afternoon at one of the many friendly cafes, sipping ‘liquid gold’ and savoring delicious local dishes while enjoying the traditional hospitality of enchanting Orvieto.

Civita di Bagnoregio and Lago di Bolsena

Explore the precariously situated town of Civita di Bagnoregio. Then go on to Bolsena on the beautiful lake of the same name for dinner and a walk along the lakeside.

Perugia

Today make your way to Perugia and enjoy walking tour of the city with your private guide. Remnants of the Etruscan, Medieval, and Roman domination of the city are visible throughout the town. The heart of historical Perugia is encircled by the massive travertine city wall. The magnificent view from the southern hill stretches from the Apennines to the Tiber Valley and the mountains of Tuscany. The entire area was completely raised and converted into the most impressive and frightening symbol of the Pope’s power that was ever built. The remains of this papal fortress are one of the highlights of the city and today are used as a passageway for pedestrians served by a series of escalators. Walking along the main street you will see the Collegio del Cambio (the seat of the powerful guild of money – changers, which was frescoed by Perugino in 1500. Proceeding along the Cardo Maximus (the main street), you will pass the Old University, Palazzo dei Priori, the Fontana Maggiore and the Cathedral of San Lorenzo. From there we will descend to the ‘Arco Etrusco’, the huge Etruscan city-gate of the north. Finally, we will return to the main street and enter the Palazzo dei Priori (the 13th century town hall) to visit the Umbrian National Gallery to see the collection of paintings and works of art which range from the 13th to 18th century. Included in this collection are a series of precious altarpieces from the 13th century as well as paintings by Perugino, Pinturicchio, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, and many others.

This evening enjoy the lively scene as the cafes and restaurants fill up and the locals stroll the streets on their evening walk.

Castiglione del Lago

In the morning head down to the town of Castiglione del Lago for a closer look at the famouse Lake Trasimeno. After a look around drive to Cortona and explore the sights of the town. You will want to save plenty of time for its medieval lanes, Etruscan walls and Renaissance palaces, made famous in Frances Mayes Under the Tuscan Sun. Tonight we can arrange a special dinner at a nearby Relais and Chateux hotel that has excellent cuisine and a stunning view of the valley below.

Cortona

Head to Cortona, the setting for Under the Tuscan Sun. which is brimming with many historic & culinary delights. A hike to Cortona’s summit is a must, for you’ll pass by the mock-Romanesque church, Santa Margherita and Fortezza Medicea. Enjoy lunch in Cortona, and taste many famous olive oils and balsamic vinegars from this area.

Arezzo

Arezzo is one of the wealthiest cities in Tuscany and it produces gold jewellery and clothing for shops all over the world. It is also the charming town seen in the award-winning movie “Life is Beautiful”, with Roberto Benigni. In Arezzo you will see Piero della Francesca’s frescoes, the Duomo, Pieve di S. Maria, Vasaris House, and Santa Maria delle Grazie. A tour in Arezzo is a wonderful Italian esperience. There is an antique fair, the most important in Italy, in Piazza Grande every first Sunday of the month. If you’re looking for something very old at a good price, don’t miss it.

Gregorian Chant Jaunt

Sant’ Antimo is a glorious monastery, isolated in a timeless landscape of fields, olive groves and wooded hills. Our hike will arrive at the Abbey in time to experience Sext, the noon prayer service that is still performed by the monks in a haunting Gregorian chant. This is one of the few places in Italy where the practice still continues, as it has for centuries. Afterwards, well enjoy an amazing lunch at our favorite trattoria, which sits just above the Abbey

Delicacies of Umbria Excursion

Tastings of Umbrian Products known as “Prodotti Tipici”. Tastings can be as elaborate as you would like, or just a simple cheese and salumi board. Or we can arrange a lesson in Umbrian cuisine. Let’s EAT! (Mangia! Mangia!) Start out with a trip to the local market pursuing the freshest produce; cherry tomatoes, rucola, truffles grown in Umbria’s woodland, fresh made pecorino, antipasto with extra virgin olive oil from olives grown right here on Umbria’s fertile soil!
Try your hand at creating homemade pasta or gnocchi under the discerning eye of a genuine Italian mamma or a professionally trained Italian chef.
Garner cooking tips, flavor melding secrets, family recipes and much more! Now the best part, devouring your creations! Savor for yourself “La Dolce Vita”, the sweet life! Buon Appetitto!

Wine Tasting

Umbria offers a good quality of grapes, favoured by the favourable climatic and soil conditions of the region. Many excellent wines come from Umbria, like the Grechetto, wine of ancient traditions, lauded by Pliny the Elder, the Rosso of Montfalco, a purple coloured wine with a harmonious and velvety flavour, the Sagrantino Passito, of ruby red colour and delicate aroma, and the Orvieto Classico, the white wine which was already famous in Etruscan times. For years the wine makers of Umbria have been tending the earth with love and respect according to the family wine- and olive oil-making traditions. Synthetic chemicals, pesticides and herbicides are not used at all and all the grapes are the fruit of their own vines. Skilful experimentation and innovation of the products have brought the wines to such a high level that they have won various regional and national prizes over the years. On this excursion you can visit an incredible winery enjoying a privileged interview with a respected local sommelier. Then you’ll pay a visit to the cantina of a renowned vintner to explore the art of cultivating distinctive wines. Glean insights into the art of fine wine etiquette. The excursion culminates in a remarkable wine tasting experience.

This post is tagged